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Birding Trip Report: Spain, 3rd – 18th May 2008
Extremadura and the Pyrenees
Participants: Dave Walker, Andy Warr, Phil Andrews and Andy Pullen*
* Extremadura only
Logistics: Return flights Birmingham – Madrid (BMIBaby ca. £75 per person, including taxes and baggage allowances). Hire car Opel Zafira, (€451 total for 15 days), roomy enough for 4 people but uncomfortable to sleep in! Typical petrol prices €1.18/litre.
Accommodation and Food:
Bungalow #1, Camping Monfragüe (seven nights, €65 per night between 4 people) cheap, cheerful and no frills but ok for a decent nights’ kip and safe place to store your kit. Biting mosquitos were a bit of a pain though. Reception girls spoke good English, were helpful and friendly. Food at the on-site restaurant was variable but generally ok though the cold soup, gazpacho extremenos, was a bit weird and not to everyone’s taste (contained hard-boiled eggs!). The waiters were miserable gits and spoke little English. We found a much better place to eat in Monroy, ‘Bar-Restaurant Christina’. The food and service here were excellent and this place also had accommodation so would definitely inquire for future visits.
Apartment in Jaca ‘Calle de Fernando el Catolico’ (€342 for 6 nights, sleeps 4 people comfortably) clean and pleasant but opening the door required some skill as the lock kept sticking. The lady who handed over the keys spoke no English at all so it was lucky I packed a phrase book. Quite a few decent places to eat in Jaca but mostly we frequented one restaurant that did a ‘menu del dia’ – three excellent courses plus wine and some schnapps – all for €11.95 per head! One night, at El Planeron ca. 120km south of Jaca, we slept (or tried to!) in the car. The food in one of the truckers cafés on the way there was very good and dirt-cheap.
One nights’ stay near Madrid on 17/05 was a bit pricey (€43 each) but we did see a few White Storks and a Night Heron from the balcony, which was some compensation.
Places visited: The holiday was split into two halves with one whole week spent in the Extremadura area (denoted by ℮ in the main text of this report) and the remaining week in the central Pyrenees area (denoted by è).
℮ Extremadura area (4th May – 10th May). i.e. areas covered in John Muddeman’s excellent ‘Birdwatching Guide To Extremadura’, Arlequin Press, 2000. Exact references to that text are given where possible.
Monfragüe National Park (pp. 27 - 32): Peňa Falcon, Portilla del Tiétar, Villareal de San Carlos, Arroyo de la Vid, Arroyo de Malvecino, Mirador de la Bascula, Puente del Cardinal.
Trujillo area (pp. 58 - 60): Belén Steppes, Santa Marta de Magasca, Rio Magasca
Sierra de Gredos (pp. 17 - 19): Plataforma de Gredos, Cirque de la Laguna, Puente del Duque, Parador de Gredos.
Roads and tracks between Trujillo, Torrejon el Rubio, Monroy and Caceres (pp 53 - 58)
Rio Almonte south of Monroy (map p. 52 text p. 57)
Rio Almonte south of Torrejon el Rubio
Embalse de Arrocampo / Almaraz area (pp. 40 - 41)
Presa de Valdecaňas (pp. 41 - 43)
Embalse de Azutan (pp. 38 - 40)
Calera y Chozas Steppes (pp. 32 - 38)
Embalse de Talaván (pp. 50 - 53)
è Pyrenees area (11th May – 17th May). i.e. the area covered in Jacquie Crozier’s ‘Birdwatching Guide To The Pyrenees’, Arlequin Press, 2001.
Jaca area (pp. 29 - 33): Hecho Valley, Boca del Infierno, Gabardito, Oroel, Puente de la Reina, San Juan de la Peňa.
Somport area (p. 13 but poorly covered): Candanchu ski station
Portalet area (p. 34): Formigal ski station
Riglos and Aguero (pp. 29 - 33)
Belchite area (pp. 61 - 62): El Planeron Steppes, Balsa de Planeron, The ruins of old Belchite
Alfranca de Pastriz ox-bow lakes
La Sariňena
Embalse de la Sotoňera
Bird Species List:
1. Gadwall Anas strepera ℮ Reasonably common in Extremadura with birds seen at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05, north of Monroy and around Embalse de Talaván on 08/05.
2. Mallard Anas platyrhychos The most commonly seen duck in both regions.
3. (Common) Pochard Aythya ferina è Just one seen, a drake at La Sariňena on 15/05.
4. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina è A pair seen at La Sariňena on 15/05.
5. Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa Reasonably common with several seen in both areas.
6. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix ℮ Commonly heard in the steppe areas around Trujillo, Santa Marta de Magasca and Caceres. Several heard and one seen in flight near Calera y Chozas on 09/05. è A few heard calling in areas with suitable habitat. One seen crossing the road between two barley fields near Sotonera on the afternoon of 17/05.
7. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis ℮ A couple seen at the Embalse de Talaván on 08/05.
8. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus The commonest Grebe, seen at most wetland sites visited.
9. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo ℮ One seen flying over the Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/08. Several seen at the northern end of the Embalse de Azutan on 09/08.
10. (Great) Bittern Botaurus stellaris ℮ The unique booming song of the male Bittern was heard from both the south and the north ends of the Embalse de Azutan on 09/05.
11. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus ℮ Several seen perching openly, both males and females, in the reedbeds of the Embalse de Arrocampo on the morning of 07/05. Also seen flying around.
12. (Black-crowned) Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax ℮ Several around Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05 and the north end of Embalse de Azutan on 09/05. One seen in flight from the hotel balcony near Madrid on the evening of 17/05.
13. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides ℮ Two or three at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05.
14. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ℮ Very common on the steppes around Trujillo. Nesting colonies noted at Embalse de Arrocampo, Embalse de Azutan and near Belén.
15. Little Egret Egretta garzetta ℮ First seen at the Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05. Also present at the Embalse de Azutan on 09/05.
16. Great White Egret Egretta alba ℮ First seen at Embalse de Arrocampo on the morning of 07/05 when one was present. A total of three seen there on the evening of 09/05. è One seen near La Sariňena on 15/05. This species must be gaining ground in Spain.
17. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Seen around most wetlands throughout.
18. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea ℮ The first was on a tiny farm pond north-east of Caceres on 05/05. Several seen at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05 and again on 09/05. Seen at both ends of the Embalse de Azutan on 09/05. è Several seen around La Sariňena on 15/05.
Purple Heron, Embalse de Arrocampo, near Almaraz, Extremadura
19. Black Stork Ciconia nigra ℮ Two birds seen flying over at the Spanish Imperial site, ca. 6 kilometers west of Torrejon el Rubio on 04/05. One bird was fishing for food along the Rio Almonte, south of Monroy, and probably the same bird seen flying around the surrounding areas on 08/05. Two birds seen in flight from the Mirador at the Portilla del Tiétar on 08/05.
20. White Stork Ciconia ciconia Very common throughout the lowlands, often with five or more nests per electricity pylon in favoured areas. A few seen at higher altitudes (e.g. Sierra de Gredos). Many nests seen in most towns and birds were even seen in large cities (e.g. Madrid). Some also nesting in trees – e.g. in the Stone Pines north of Monroy. Also locally very common in the Pyrenees.
White Storks nesting in Extremadura
21. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus ℮ One was seen briefly at Embalse de Arrocampo on 06/05.
22. (Eurasian) Spoonbill Platelea leucorodia ℮ One probable immature bird was at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05 with a different bird (an adult) in exactly the same spot on 09/05. Four were seen circling in flight north-east of Juraicejo on 07/05. Three were at Embalse de Talavan on 08/05.
23. Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus ℮ Three were seen flying over Peňa Falcon on the morning of 04/05. One seen in flight in the middle reaches of the Valle de Jerte on 06/05.
è About 20 were seen on the afternoon of 11/05 flying over the upper reaches of the Hecho valley, viewed from Boca del Infierno. Closer views of a medium phase bird were had from Gabardito later on the same afternoon. Five out of a total of seven birds seen at El Planeron gave very close views on 15/05. This group contained one pale- and two dark-phase birds. At least two seen soaring over Riglos on 16/05.
24. Black-winged Kite Elanus Caeruleus ℮ One seen perched on wires and then hunting in typical hovering flight on 04/06 just north of of the CC-912 Torrejon el Rubio to Caceres road, north of Monroy. One or two birds seen in the same area on the morning of 08/05 and up to three there on the evening of 10/05. One seen from the north end of the Embalse de Azutan on the morning of 09/05 and a distant bird ‘scoped at the nearby plains of Calera y Chozas in the early afternoon. Much closer views of perched and hunting birds were gained later on in the early evening on the same day near Almaraz.
25. Black Kite Milvus migrans ℮ A very common raptor in Extremadura, seen virtually everywhere on all days. è Most commonly seen south of Jaca, especially the Belchite and Riglos areas.
Black Kite, an extremely common raptor in Extremadura
26. Red Kite Milvus milvus ℮ Much less common than Black Kite in Extremadura. One lingering around the Rio Almonte bridge, south of Torrejon el Rubio, on the afternoon of 04/05 was the first sighting. Regular sightings of single birds every day thereafter, including one or two in the Sierra de Gredos (e.g. at the Puente del Duque) on 06/05. è More common than Black Kite in the Jaca area with several seen every day, even over the town itself. Multiple sightings relatively frequent in this area. Also seen at reasonably high altitudes near the frontier passes of Somport and Portalet. Birds perched on telgraph poles were seen in several places, such as the Hecho Valley.
27. Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus è The first sightings of this magnificent vulture were from the Boca del Infierno on the afternoon of 11/05, of two birds perched and in flight. Another seen in flying over Candanchu on 12/05. One bird seen in flight from Gabardito on 13/05 and then stunning close views of four birds engaging in talon-grappling displays over Formigal ski station near Portalet later on the same afternoon. Finally, two birds seen soaring into the clouds above the “mallos” at Riglos on the afternoon of 16/05.
28. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus ℮ Seen on the first morning of the trip from Peňa Falcon and the Castillo de Monfragüe flying and perching low on rocks next to the edge of the Rio Tajo. Seen on all days thereafter including in the Sierra de Gredos on 06/05. Especially frequent around Monfragüe National Park and the environs of the Presa de Valdecaňas, with multiple sightings at both sites. Most were adult or near-adult but a much darker subadult bird was seen near the Embalse de Talavan on 08/05. è Seen around the Hecho Valley and Gabardito areas on 11/05 and 13/05. Also seen near Portalet and Asieso on 13/05. Finally, two seen soaring around Riglos on 16/05.
Egyptian Vulture near Presa de Valdecaňas, Extremadura
29. Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Very common throughout Extremadura and the Pyrenees (and places in-between). The largest flock seen contained 140+ at Riglos on 16/05.
Griffon Vultures at Peňa Falcon, Monfragüe, Extremadura
30. Black Vulture Aegypius monachus ℮ This immense ‘flying door’ was seen aplenty in Extremadura as well as in the Sierra de Gredos. Several birds were seen every day soaring either alone or in the company of the much more abundant Griffons, in both hilly areas and the flatter steppes.
31. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus ℮ This impressive large raptor was seen rather frequently. The first was quartering a hillside by the Puente del Cardinal, Monfragüe, on 04/04. Several, sometimes in pairs, noted most days thereafter. è Two in the middle reaches of the Hecho valley on 11/05 and another two near Embalse de la Sotonera on 17/05.
32. Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus ℮ Seen at Embase de Arrocampo on 07/05 and 09/05. A pair at the north end of Embalse de Azutan on 09/05. è A female at El Planeron on the evening of 14/05 and a pair at La Sariňena on 15/05.
33. Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus ℮ Commonly seen in the steppes of Extremadura. A particularly large concentration of birds was present east of Caceres with up to 16 seen displaying and quartering over one field in this area! Two examples of the melanistic form were seen – one on the plains of Belén and one north-east of Caceres (both on 05/05).
è Just one seen (a male) at El Planeron on 15/05.
34. (Eurasian) Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus è A single bird was seen near the picknick site on the road that leads to the Parador d’Oroel on 17/05.
35. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo ℮ First encountered at Belén on 05/05 and seen reasonably frequently thereafter. è Also seen in the Pyrenees region – for example, between Riglos and Jaca on 16/05.
36. Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti ℮ Distant views of a nesting pair roughly 6km west of Torrejon el Rubio on several dates. The pair seemed most active on 10/05 and as this was a cooler day with little or no heat haze the viewing was much better. One seen in flight over Portilla del Tiétar, Monfragüe, on the evening of 08/05. A few other sightings of distant large eagles in Extremadura were either this or the following species.
37. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos ℮ A distant soaring bird on the afternoon of 04/05 from the Rio Almonte, south of Torrejon el Rubio. One around Presa de Valdecaňas on 07/05 and reasonable views of a bird perched on a pile of rocks near Embalse de Talaván on 08/05. One seen perched and then flying over the steppes east of Caceres on the morning of 10/05.
è Seen perched on the rocky mountainsides around Gabardito on the afternoon of 11/05 and again in the same area on the morning of 13/05.
Golden Eagle near Embalse de Talaván
38. Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus ℮ Common in Extremadura with excellent views of pale, dark and intermediate phase birds. è Only one seen in the Pyrenees region, a pale phase at Riglos on 16/05.
39. Bonelli’s Eagle Aquila fasciata ℮ A pair seen soaring around Arroyo de Malvecino, Monfragüe, on 04/05 eventually landed on a telephone mast giving excellent ‘scope views. Another territorial pair near Presa de Valdecaňas on 07/05 gave excellent views.
Adult Bonelli’s Eagle near Presa de Valdecaňas, Extremadura
40. Osprey Pandion haliaetus è One seen in flight over Riglos on 16/05 was a great surprise and a very welcome addition to the trip list.
41. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni ℮ Seen around Trujillo on 05/05, especially around the ‘Plaza de Toros’. A roost of 33 males on electricity pylons between Monfragüe campsite and Malpartida de Plasencia on 09/05.
42. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Reasonably common throughout. Some females seen only in flight could’ve been this or the former species.
43. Hobby Falco subbuteo ℮ One at the Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05. è One near Riglos on 16/05.
44. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus è Appeared to be surprisingly scarce. One above Gabardito on 13/05 and another at Riglos on 16/05.
45. Water Rail Rallus aquaticus ℮ Several heard squealing around the North end of the Embalse de Azutan (Finca Particular) on 09/05.
46. Little Crake Porzana parva ℮ One adult seen very well as it perched out in the open on flattened reeds for about 30 seconds at the Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05 was a very unexpected find.
47. Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Commonly seen around vegetated wetlands.
48. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio ℮ This big noisy beast was easily seen at the Embalse de Arrocampo on the morning of 07/05 and the evening of 09/05. A few were also seen and heard around the margins of the Embalse de Azutan on the morning of 09/05.
Purple Swamphen, Embalse de Arrocampo, near Almaraz, Extremadura
49. Common Coot Fulica atra Seen in most wetland areas.
50. Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax ℮ About five widely separated birds on the Belén steppes on 05/05, including three displaying males. Similar numbers on the plains east of Caceres on the same day. One male at Calera y Chozas on 09/05. Also seen between Trujillo and Monroy on the morning of 10/05.
51. Great Bustard Otis tarda ℮ More than twenty on the Belén steppes on 05/05, including one group of 13 males, a couple of which were in full display. At least ten seen on the same day just east of Caceres. One group of over thirty seen on the plains around Calera y Chozas 09/05. Three seen between Trujillo and Monroy and eight seen in flight east of Caceres on 10/05.
Great Bustards, Calera y Chozas Plains, Castilla la Mancha
52. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus ℮ A few seen at several wetland sites, inluding Embalse de Arrocampo and on the small fishing pools in Trujillo. è Four at Balsa de Planeron on 15/05.
53. Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus ℮ One in flight east of Caceres on 05/05. One ‘coped on a fallow field near Calera y Chozas on 09/05. è Heard calling at dusk on 14/05 at El Planeron. Excellent views the next morning in the same place.
54. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius ℮ One seen ca. 6km west of Torrejon el Rubio on 04/05. Two present at the Embalse de Talaván on 08/05 and another pair on the Rio Tamujar on 10/05. è One seen in flight at La Sariňena on 15/05.
55. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago è One flushed from a damp hollow by the side of the car park at Candanchu on 12/05.
56. Common Redshank Tringa totanus è One at Balsa de Planeron on 15/05.
57. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos ℮ Probably the most regularly seen wader, in various wetland and streamside settings in Extremadura. è One or two at Alfranca de Pastriz ox-bow lakes on 14/05.
58. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus ℮ Sixteen flew over Embalse de Arrocampo on the morning of 07/05.
59. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis è Three (2 adult, 1 first winter) around Riglos on 16/05. More than 40 at Embalse de la Sotonera on 17/05 and appeared to be nesting there.
60. Little Tern Sternula albifrons ℮ Two at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05 and three there on 09/05.
61. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica ℮ One near Belén on 05/05. Two or three at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05 and two there on 09/05.
62. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida ℮ Three at Embalse de Arrocampo on 07/05.
è One at La Sariňena on 15/05.
63. Black Tern Chlidonias niger è Up to five birds present at La Sariňena on 15/05.
64. Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis ℮ Several flocks of up to 20 birds seen over the plains between Santa Marta de Magasca and Caceres on 05/05. Birds mainly seen in flight but also distantly feeding on the ground. è Three in flight near Balsa de Planeron on the morning of 15/05.
65. Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata ℮ One flock of 9 birds seen in flight over the steppes between Santa Marta de Magasca and Caceres on 05/05. è Good flight views of a flock of eight birds at El Planeron on 15/05.
66. Feral / Rock Dove Columba livia Common
67. Woodpigeon Columba palumbus Fairly common throughout.
68. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Common throughout.
69. Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur ℮ Birds heard calling in several areas. Two seen collecting grit on the side of the road, west of Trujillo, on 10/05. è One seen on the way back to Jaca from Riglos on 16/05.
70. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius ℮ Two seen at Belén on 05/05. One between Trujillo and Monroy on 10/05. è Two at El Planeron on the evening of 14/05 and again, giving excellent views on the ground, the next morning.
71. Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Commonly seen in most areas.
72. Scops Owl Otus scops è Several heard calling from trees around the streets of Jaca on most evenings after dusk.
73. Eagle Owl Bubo bubo ℮ Exceptional views of an adult sat on a rocky pinnacle directly opposite the Mirador de Portilla del Tiétar, Monfragüe, on the evening of 07/05. The same bird plus two newly fledged juveniles seen at the same site on the following evening. The adult was heard to give its deep sonorous booming call.
Adult Eagle Owl at Portilla del Tiétar, Monfragüe National Park, Extremadura
74. Little Owl Athene noctua ℮ Commonly seen during the day perched on posts or buildings around the steppes and dehesas, with up to seven individuals seen on 05/05. è One or two sightings in the pyrenees, for example El Planeron on 14/05.
75. Tawny Owl Strix aluco è Heard on a couple of early mornings around Oroel, whilst looking for Black Woodpecker.
76. Long-eared Owl Asio otus ℮ One seen between Monfragüe campsite and Malpartida de Plasencia on the evening of 09/05.
77. European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus ℮ Heard churring near Mirador de la Bascula, Monfragüe, on 08/05. è Excellent views of birds perched in the middle of the roads towards Oroel at dawn, especially on the morning of 17/05.
78. Red-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis ℮ It’s distinctive ‘kyotok’ call was heard distantly from Mirador de la Bascula, Monfragüe, on 08/05. None of the birds seen were definitely identified as this species, however.
Nightjar sp. Caprimulgus sp. Several nightjars flushed from roads during early morning or late evening forays could not be identified down to species level, oweing to the brevity of the views. A silent bird floated over the entrance to the campsite on the first evening of the trip (04/05) but no features could be seen.
79. Common Swift Apus apus Common throughout.
80. Alpine Swift Apus melba ℮ Perhaps surprisingly, this large Swift was only seen in Extremadura. The first was a group of three at Peňa Falcon on 04/05. Also seen from the Castillo de Monfragüe and near Arroyo de la Vid on other occasions.
81. Pallid Swift Apus pallidus ℮ A pair was present and appeared to be nesting under the road bridge over the Rio Almonte, south of Torrejon el Rubio, on 04/05. Standing on the bridge afforded close views from above enabling easy identification. Another pair was seen and were probably nesting in a roof in the village of Cabezuela in the Valle del Jerte on 06/05. Some may have been overlooked and we didn’t identify any in the Pyrenees.
82. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster This exquisitely colourful species is plentiful in Spain and was seen every day in both Extremadura and the Pyrenees. Most commonly seen in lowland areas but also in the uplands, such as è Candanchu on 12/05. A large nesting colony containing 30+ pairs was seen below the road bridge at the ℮ Presa de Valdecaňas on 07/05.
83. European Roller Coracius garrulus At least eleven individuals of this stunning species were seen during the trip. ℮ The first was seen perched on a wire fence just east of Santa Marta de Magasca on 05/05 and afforded very close views before flying off. No less than three pairs were present and appeared to be breeding in the nestboxes specially erected on the electricity pylons that cross the farmed steppes east of Caceres. These birds were seen on 05/05 and again in the same area on 10/05 and represented the highest concentration of Rollers seen throughout our visit. Two were seen perched on dead trees south-west of Calera y Chozas near a farm track running north from the CM-4101. è | 
